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Mash Press Filter

  • 1.  Mash Press Filter

    Posted 08-24-2023 11:48

    Hey there fam!

    I was curious what knowledge is out there about the operations of mash press filters. I have just begun working at a distillery and we have the luxury of a brand new mash press but none of us have ever use one prior. We did our first cook yesterday and noticed there was a decent amount of grain still left behind specifically in the center of the press itself where the mash is fed through. Does anyone have any advice on what they do to clear that residual grain out in a controlled manner other than just spraying it out with a hose and creating a mess on the floor? 

    Any other general maintenance and/or operational tips on how to keep this machine as clean and functional as possible would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers!



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    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 2.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 08-26-2023 19:19

    Hi Patrick,

    We've been using a mash press since 2008 so hopefully I can help.   We have a Meura mash filter press for reference, I'm not sure what brand of filter you have.     On our system, most of our grain will fall out on its own when the press is opened, but there is always some manual removal required by the operator with a plastic paddle to lightly push across the filter cloths to knock off any leftover grain.   The spent grains will start to stick more to the filter cloths as they age as well.   You can also hose off this spent grain but it will make a mess as you are finding, so a plastic paddle would be easier and faster.     You can find these paddles on many food grade supply web pages.  You'll never get all of the grain off the plates, its just like residual grains that never come out of a lauter tun after a brew so leaving some grains behind is ok until the end of the week cleanup.  

    How long you press the spent grains after recovery of the wort will also have an effect on how well the grain falls off the plates.  If you shorten or extend the final press time you'll change the moisture content of the spent grains and you can experiment and see which squeeze times work best.   

    End of the week cleanup is important otherwise you'll get dried wort sugars stuck in the filter cloth fibers which will cause more sticking of spent grains and shorten the life of the cloths as they plug up over time.   So a long circulation time with 100 degree caustic at the end of the week is critical for the lives of the cloths.  You also want to make sure the filter press is totally full during CIP so the plates are fully submerged, so if you have a 10 bbl system usually your mash filter will need to hold about 5-6 bbls of caustic for cleaning.  It's also critical to neutralize all of the caustic after cleaning as the dried caustic salts can damage the cloth fibers.  So after CIP you either want to flush your filter with a lot of warm water until the pH of the water is neutral or you can run a light acid solution afterward. 

    I hope all of that helps, feel free to reach out if you have other questions, cheers.   



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    Curtis Holmes
    Alaskan Brewing Co
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  • 3.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 09-23-2023 12:10

    Curtis,

    My apologies on the rather tardy response, things have been hectic here as we are ironing out a lot of kinks that come with being a new facility.

    I apricate your insight and it is wildly helpful. At this current point in time we are having issues with wort still remaining inside of our press even after our rest. 

    Our procedure goes as follows:

    After KO we "sparge" with water then rest 15mins to allow our grant to catch up. We then "squeeze" our press allowing the air sacks inside of the plating to force the residual liquid out of the grain. After another 15min rest with our initial "squeeze" on we send another sum of water to act as a second sparge. With the "squeeze" still on we then rest for an additional 30mins after all of the water has gone through. After the 30mins rest we release our "squeeze" and open the filter for cleaning.

    In your professional opinion do you see any issues with that SOP? We have not had any luck with collecting all of our wort and the result is leaving us with lower gravities and therefore less product coming out of our stills.

    Thank you again for the guidance, it truly is appreciated!



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    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 4.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 09-23-2023 15:39

    Hi Patrick,

    I'll list the steps that our Meura mash filter does below, that may help you figure out some areas to experiment with.  One possible issue I see is that you are starting and stopping the flow through the mash filter.   As you read the steps below its important to note that our Meura mash filter never stops the wort flow.   As each step transitions, the changes happen quickly and are designed to always keep flow through the filter so you don't disrupt the filter bed.   

    Here's a rough outline of the steps:

    1.      Pump from the mash tun into the mash filter slowly.   As you fill the mash filter up you are already collecting wort to the brew kettle because the filter cloths are doing the work to remove the solids

    2.      When the mash tun is empty, your mash filter should be full.   Push out the mash tun pipes with sparge water but only enough to push all the grain into the filter, stop the water. 

    3.      Compress the filter to push all of the high gravity wort into the kettle, after the grain bed is compressed only leave it compressed for a few minutes or until regular flow slows down

    4.      Slowly release the compression air on the filter bed, as you do this you also immediately start pushing sparge water into the filter.   The idea is to push the membranes back with the sparge water so it displaces the air gap in the plates.  If you release air too quickly with no water coming in, the space left in the filter by the retracting membrane will allow grain to fall to the bottom of the plates and you'll get gaps on the filter cloths that will allow straight sparge water through to the kettle. 

    5.      Continue sparging through the filter bed until you get close to the kettle height that you want or close to the kettle Plato that you want.  You'll need to determine when to stop at this step depending on how much more wort you collect in the next step during final compression, it may take some trial and error.

    6.      Final sparge and compression – There are two options here:

    a.      Once you decide your kettle is close to being full, stop the sparge flow through the filter bed and do a final compression.  This will push any remaining wort into the kettle.  If your kettle is full, then the rest of the wort/water can be dumped to the floor to keep drying out the filter bed.  Then compress the filter bed for as long as you want to dry it out and dump. 

    b.      Keep sparging until the kettle is full and then recover the remaining wort back to the mash tun for another brew.     If you have good quality wort in these last runnings, you can keep sparging down to 1 Plato to help your brewhouse efficiency.    Then compress the filter bed to dry it out for as long as you want and dump.

    I hope that helps in some way, good luck!   



    ------------------------------
    Curtis Holmes
    Alaskan Brewing Co
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  • 5.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-14-2023 13:10

    Curtis,

    The information you have provided for me in this SOP has been very helpful. I should note, we are using a Micropure filter press in our facility so we do feed through the center of the plates vs through the corners. We have altered our SOP to be more in line with this. Currently what we are doing is as follows:

    1. Send mash through filter press
    2. Once mash tun is empty we compress for 15mins
    3. At the end of our 15min compression we begin sending sparge, once we have flow we then release compression and allow entirety of our sparge water to run through aggressively. This is in hopes to clear our our center hole
    4. Post sparge we do another compression and rest for 45mins, which at that point leaves us with a slight trickle of wort.

    Although this new process has increased our efficiencies we are still spit balling alternative ideas as we are still coming in about 1Bx low on our OG, sometimes more. 

    Your assistance has been beyond helpful, thank you very much! 



    ------------------------------
    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 6.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-16-2023 21:42

    Hey Patrick,

    I agree with all of what Curtis has said! We ended up with a Meura after going up and seeing Alaska's setup (thanks Curtis!). I'll have to stress that there is definitely a minimum and maximum loading per chamber, and it isn't very flexible. I would also say that 15 minutes compression between first worts and sparging is too long. You really want to balance first wort collection with bed permeability, meaning that you can squeeze too hard and/or too long. For the Meura, there is a calculation based on flow rate during the first wort compression step that dictates compression time. It was adjustable, so you could squeeze longer or shorter, but the time in compression was tricky. Too long, the bed was compressed and sparge was slow. Too short, and you left extract in the bed. Each recipe had their own sweet spot. Ideally, your initial sparge rate and inlet pressure to the filter should be in the range of the last consistent flow rate and inlet pressure before the first wort compression step to provide a gentle transition from wort collection to sparging. We had a separate smaller valve to bleed the compression air off very slowly as sparge water was added. This avoids cracking the mash bed on the plates in the filter and allowing sparge water to shortcut the bed, or even worse, as Curtis explained. Then, as sparge progresses, and more is extracted from the bed, the bed becomes more permeable, and flow rate can increase in several steps or a continuous ramp till near Kettle full. As you ramp up the sparging speed, if the filter pressure climbs too much, then that is a good sign that you were in the compression step too long. If you think about this as a giant vertical leaf DE filter, there are a lot of similarities. Smooth flow rate increases, no hammering…..bed quality/permeability is most important. We definitely got excellent extract results!



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    James Emmerson
    Executive Brewmaster (retired)
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  • 7.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 09-25-2023 13:22

    I have worked on a few different mash filter designs (beer). As Reade mentioned loading rate is important. You need to fill the chambers properly,  the amounts will vary based on the grist.  You will have to look at the capacity (volume) and work form there.

    Do you have an idea of how much extract you are recovering?  The basic method I have used is chase the wort with the sparge then squeeze.  You may be able to recover slightly more extract with squeeze then sparge but this is at the expense of time.  Feel free to PM me to discuss.



    ------------------------------
    Richard Michaels
    Schenectady NY
    (315) 235-5401
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  • 8.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-14-2023 13:10

    Hey Richard,

    I appreciate your insight. As far as our filter capacity I will have to check in with my manager and see if he has that information. As far as extraction we have pulled a sample from our mash tun pre-filter and received an average Brix reading of about 22Bx. by the end of our collection (sparge included) we typically end up around 16-17Bx. We have not discussed obtaining a sample pre-sparge in order to see our raw extraction however. Come to think of it, rather silly of us to have not thought of that yet. I will be cooking up a mash today and will be sure to get a reading pre filter and post filter but pre-sparge and report back with my results.

    Thank you for the thought!



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    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 9.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 08-28-2023 10:16

    I am a big proponent of mash presses for distillers, so I am excited to hear that y'all have one. My one quick bit of initial advice is that mash filters are not designed to run at +/-20% of their designed capacity. That means you don't have the flexibility of a lauter tun and can't do half batches or big batches. Also your manufacturer should have given you an optimal mill rate that the filter plates can handle. Be sure to check that you are milling to within those specifications



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    Reade Huddleston
    Experienced Brewer and Distiller
    913-981-3727
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  • 10.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 09-25-2023 19:03

    My guess is this isn't the usual Muera press and might be a center fed poly plate press? Can you throw up a photo? I'm a fan of all things filter press and have designed/built fully automatic systems for distillation and brewing. 



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    David Kyrejko
    Matrix Technologies Inc.
    Brooklyn NY
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  • 11.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-14-2023 13:10

    Hey there David, you are in fact accurate in your assumption. We are using  MicroPure press. I will throw up an image of the front of the press as well as the interior, if you have any advice on how to get the most out of this piece of equipment it would be wildly appreciated.



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    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 12.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-17-2023 01:05

    Nice. No stinky rubber liners but you do lose a tiny bit of "squeeze-ability" with a center fed vs. corner fed. First things first, are you using a hammer mill or a roller mill? I'm kinda scared you're going to say the latter… 



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    David Kyrejko
    The Engine Room
    Brooklyn NY
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  • 13.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-17-2023 09:43
    I have done side by side trials with hammer vs roller milling at the Ziemann pilot brewery.  The difference was not significant.  We were confident that either milling system could be used without impacting beer quality after the trial. Also, the majority of mash filtered beer produced in the US is milled on a roller mill.   

    I have found that hammer milling is necessary with unmalted grains due to the higher moisture content preserving the husk and increasing the volume of the grist.  This is on a beer made with 100% unmalted barley.

    Looking at the photo of the press, I have concerns about the pipe size change on the center filling line. Keeping the velocity up during the fill is important for even loading.






  • 14.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-19-2023 16:20

    Richard, are you suggesting we should be pushing wort in through the press at a high rate initially?



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    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 15.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-19-2023 17:36
    Yes, you need to get the mash moving to the back of the press.  If you don't have proper velocity, the front of the press will fill and prevent the mash from filling the back end of the press.





  • 16.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-19-2023 16:20

    We do in fact have a hammer mill



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    Patrick Vandergeest
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  • 17.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-19-2023 20:56

    Glad to hear you have a hammer mill, while I respect Richard's position on this, the truth of the matter is that a hammer mill's ability to powder the entire grain kernel is important. This isn't a mash tun, you aren't making a filter bed. We don't want any kind of crush, we want flour. I personally have never seen a mash filter properly set up with a roller mill. There is one manufacturer that insists on it, but you don't have one of those monstrosities and there's no need to mention them here. The next main thing to consider is mash density. Here's where I agree with Richard, you want you keep the velocity up so that you have an even fill. With mash filters you want a very loose mash that you might not be accustomed to with a typical tun. The reason for this is pretty clear and meshes (puns) with the idea that you want to uniformly load up the plates by keep the velocity high. A low mash density will do that no problem. Since your sparge is so much more effective with the press, just borrow from there to lower the density. I'm also assuming you're using a standard centrifugal pump instead of a positive displacement pump. In that case it's even more important to have a nice thin wort. I've seen some folks use small pneumatic diaphragm pumps with these presses too but the lack of "smoothness" is a problem.  Have you contacted Micropure? Trey is very helpful for stuff like this. 



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    David Kyrejko
    The Engine Room
    Brooklyn NY
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  • 18.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-19-2023 21:29

    I agree with David! But there is a very famous southern German brewer using Mash Presses with roller mills in a very specific way, so there are many paths to success! I would definitely reach out to Micropure. The specifications around usage should be very clear: Plate/Chamber loading minimum and maximum, optimal mash density,  transfer velocities, pressures, and timing, then recommended sparge velocity and pressures, max pressure overall, etc. When you get everything dialed, they are really consistent and great pieces of equipment.



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    James Emmerson
    Executive Brewmaster (retired)
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  • 19.  RE: Mash Press Filter

    Posted 10-20-2023 21:44

    I want to comment on the interesting discussion about using a Hammer Mill versus a Roller Mill with a mash filter system. With the emphasis on the craft brewery engineering design and manufacturing business, one of the important design criteria is reduced equipment cost for a comparable outcome when comparing different equipment. The equipment initial capital cost, operational cost, maintenance cost, and the ease of maintenance make up those criteria of the two systems in question. 

    Hammer mills of the same hourly output of 2,000 to 5,000 pounds per hour are 3 times the capital cost, and 3 times higher operational energy cost with higher maintenance cost and noise levels. For these reasons a modified roller mill became our "strip mill" (one roller running faster than the other), this feature strips the husk away and flours the endosperm. We found that plus/minus 40% flour made a permeable bed with the larger pieces of torn husks.  Keeping the husk in larger pieces also helped to overcome the misguided perception amongst many craft brewers that grinding or pounding the grain husks, a mash filter "squeeze" produced a higher percentage of tannins over the lauter tun. In fact, the opposite is true, time and temperature are the major causes for tannins release. The only benefit the hammer mill has over the roller mill is when using wet grains, or very small grains such as Millet and Sorghum and the roller gap requires closer adjustment. The quality of malted and unmalted dried grains grist is comparable.

    Cheers,

    Jeff.



    ------------------------------
    Jeff Gunn
    President & CEO
    IDD Process & Packaging, Inc.
    5450 Tech Circle
    Moorpark, CA 93021
    Tel: 805-529-9890
    Fax: 805-529-9282
    Cell: 805-444-3842
    Toll Free: 800-621-4144
    Email: idd2jeff@aol.com
    Skype: jeffgunn50
    Web: www.iddeas.com
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