Dear Russell:
Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) is usually caused by a combination of tensile stress, chlorides and other environmental factors like heat, pH, etc. Unfortunately, austenitic stainless steel like the 300 series (304, 308, 316, etc.) are the most susceptible to this phenomenon.
Hot liquor tanks in particular are often first and most severely affected due to the presence of chlorides from the water, a relatively low pH environment (chlorides are buffered somewhat at pH levels above 9.5) and high temperatures. Add some deposits from hard water (mineral scale) and you have created the ideal environment for stress corrosion cracking.
Running your water through a RO system would completely remove all chlorides but is expensive. Frequent passivation (monthly or more often as needed) can reduce the effect, but not completely eliminate it. Failure of the vessel is rare, but the cracks can harbor microorganism.
Oxygen too is a contributing factor. If the stainless is fully immersed or de-aerated water is present, SCC is rarely observed. There is a synergistic relationship between dissolved oxygen and the chloride level. If the oxygen level is reduced to the 0.01 to 0.1 ppm range, aqueous solutions containing low to moderate chloride levels are not likely to crack austenitic alloys, such as 304L and 316L. The normal solubility of O2 in water at room to moderate temperatures (e.g. up to 140°F/60°C) is 4.5 to 8 ppm at atmospheric pressure.
The most susceptible austenitic grades have nickel contents in the range of 8 to 10 wt.%. As a result, standard grades such as 304/304L and 316/316L are very susceptible to SCC. Austenitic grades with relatively high nickel and molybdenum contents such as alloy 20, 904L, and the 6% molybdenum super austenitic grades have substantially better chloride SCC resistance.
You can experience the same problem with acid CIP solutions and even water pipes. Again, tensile stress and temperature are big contributors.
The tank is probably still operational and probably will last for quite a while, but the SCC represents a problem with respect to the ability to form a passive layer and will therefore likely result in further damage down the line. Remove the chlorides completely to eliminate the problem and further damage.
Cheers,
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Dirk Loeffler
Executive Vice President
Technical Operations
SEKA Chemicals, LLC
loeffler.dirk@sekachemicals.com------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 02-19-2024 12:54
From: John Palmer
Subject: HLT stress corrosion cracking: practical solutions?
Yes, unfortunately I have to agree with Bradley. An anode will prevent general corrosion, but not SCC. The cracks are initiated and will keep propagating with the presence of chlorides (although I consider yours to be low) until the stress is removed. Welding them will work but will keep sensitizing the metal in the heat affected zone, making the metal more susceptible to SCC. If you can't afford to replace the tank, then another solution may be to coat the entire bottom of the tank (assuming that's were the problem is) with epoxy, thereby plugging the cracks and removing the environment.
Good Luck!
John
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John Palmer
Owner
Palmer Brewing Solutions Inc
La Crescenta CA
Original Message:
Sent: 02-14-2024 19:39
From: Russell Everett
Subject: HLT stress corrosion cracking: practical solutions?
Well we were just having some welding done on our 20bbl HLT, few little repairs and upgrades after 12 years of service. One of the big ones was a new port for mounting a spray ball in there to better descale it, as it didn't come with one and our descaling efforts have been pretty hit and miss over the years. Ran it for a couple hours and it was much, much, much better in there. Sweet! Then the leaking began.
On further inspection, there were several dozen tiny little stress cracks around the bottom edges of the tank. Presumably stress corrosion cracking where it's most shouldering the load and from a decade of hot/cool/hot/cool. Our water is 18ppm chloride and 28ppm sodium, either due to how the city is treating it or saltwater intrusion into our aquifer (we are on an island after all). Presumably the scale had been plugging the cracks and cleaning opened them up. No good deed goes unpunished I guess.
Welders did what they could but I suspect we'll be in whack-a-mole mode from here on out. Any advice on limiting the creeping damage? I read the Stainless Steel in the Brewery article from Volume 38, Number 2 • 2001 • Pages 67-82 which was helpful but also...I'm a tired brewer not a metalurgist.
Got me thinking about my boat... Any reason not to stick a sacrificial anode in there? (Aluminum-zinc presumably.) I know that's primarily for galvanic corrosion, but wondering if it would help? If the cracking is from physical stress no, but I gather the cracks often start at sites where pitting or some other corrosion has occurred. Anyhow, any practical advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Russell Everett
Head Brewer
Bainbridge Brewing
Bainbridge Island WA
(206) 451-4646
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